Grado

Grado's Sunday market is one of the most important in Asturias, running for centuries. Farmers from the surrounding valleys bring cheese, cured meat, bread, honey, and fresh produce. The Afuega'l Pitu cheese, made locally, is a must-try. If you arrive on a Sunday, the Camino literally walks through the market. On other days, the town centre still has good shops and bakeries.

The old centre of Grado has attractive arcaded streets with stone buildings, balconied houses, and small squares. The Capilla de los Dolores in the main square is a Baroque chapel worth a look. The town feels lived-in and authentic rather than touristic. Wander the streets, find a bar, and settle in for your first evening on the Primitivo.

You are in Asturias, the cider capital of Spain. Grado has several bars where you can try sidra natural, poured in the traditional way from a bottle held high above the glass. The technique aerates the cider and creates a brief fizz. Drink it quickly in one or two gulps, then hand the glass back for another pour. The ritual is as important as the taste.

The river runs through the edge of town and there are paths along the banks. After your first 25 km stage on the Primitivo, a gentle riverside walk with no pack on your back is a welcome change. The valley is green and lush, and the mountains you will be walking into over the coming days are visible on the horizon to the west.