Abadín

A Romanesque parish church that dates from the 12th century, with a simple stone facade and a single nave interior. The carved doorway and the corbels along the roofline show typical Romanesque decoration. Rural Romanesque churches like this are scattered throughout inland Galicia, and visiting them one by one as you walk is one of the quiet pleasures of the Norte's final stages. This is a place of worship, not a museum, and that gives it a different atmosphere.

The countryside around Abadin is rolling green hills, granite farmhouses, eucalyptus groves, and small dairy farms. The horreos (raised stone granaries used to dry maize and store crops) are a distinctive feature of the Galician landscape and you will see dozens of them in every village. After the dramatic coast of the Basque Country, Cantabria, and Asturias, this softer, quieter terrain invites a different kind of attention. Slow down and listen. The birdsong, the cowbells, and the wind through

The restaurants and bars in Abadin serve simple, generous Galician food at very fair prices. Try the caldo gallego (broth with greens, potatoes, and pork), the empanada (savoury pie with tuna or pork), and the local cheeses. The dairy farming heritage of the area means the cheese, butter, and milk-based desserts are excellent. A full pilgrim meal with wine in a town like Abadin can cost remarkably little. This is one of the most affordable sections of any Camino.

If you started in Irun, you have walked approximately 695 km along Spain's northern coast and into the Galician interior. You have crossed the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and now Galicia. You have seen mountains, beaches, fishing villages, industrial cities, cider country, and now dairy farms. Santiago is about 130 km ahead. Five or six more days. The Norte is one of the longest and most varied Camino routes, and by Abadin you have earned the right to feel proud of what you have accompl