Astorga

One of only three buildings that Antoni Gaudi designed outside Catalonia. This neo-Gothic palace looks like something from a fairy tale, complete with turrets and a moat. Inside, it houses the Museo de los Caminos, a museum dedicated to the pilgrimage routes with religious statues, artefacts, and Camino history across four floors. The stained glass alone is worth the visit. Entry is around 6 euros with an audio guide.

Construction began in 1471 and continued for three centuries, resulting in a striking mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. The two towers are built from different coloured stone, giving the facade an unusual asymmetric look. Inside, the altarpiece by Gaspar Becerra is considered one of the finest in Spain. The cathedral is particularly beautiful in late afternoon light when the red stone glows.

Astorga is considered the European birthplace of chocolate. In the 19th century, the city had over 40 chocolate manufacturers. The small museum on Plaza San Bartolome traces the history of cacao from Mexico to Spain and displays old machinery and memorabilia from Astorga's chocolate golden age. Entry includes free samples of artisan chocolate. A fun and unexpected Camino stop.

The signature dish of the Maragateria region around Astorga. A massive stew served in reverse order: first the meats (beef, pork ribs, chorizo, morcilla, chicken), then the chickpeas and vegetables, then the broth. It is designed to be eaten by workers who needed energy fast, meat first, soup last. Order it for lunch at one of the restaurants near the Plaza Mayor. It is enormous. You may not need dinner.

Astorga was founded by the Romans as Asturica Augusta over 2,000 years ago. Significant sections of the Roman walls still stand, rebuilt in later centuries but following the original layout. Walk along the outside of the walls through the Parque del Melgar for excellent views of both the walls and the full profile of Gaudi's palace above. Roman mosaics and bath ruins are visible near the archaeological museum.

On the 17th-century Town Hall in the Plaza Mayor, two figures called Colasa and Perico (the most famous maragatos in Astorga) strike the bell on the hour. Time your visit to the plaza to catch them in action. Grab a seat at one of the terrace bars, order a coffee, and wait. It is a small pleasure that captures the charm of this town perfectly.

Astorga's traditional sweet cakes, baked in distinctive square paper moulds. They have been made here for over 200 years, originally invented by nuns. Light, buttery, and flavoured with cinnamon, they make excellent trail snacks for the mountain stages ahead. Pick some up from one of the bakeries on the main street. Also try the chocolate from the five remaining artisan chocolate factories on Calle Los Sitios.