Avilés

The medieval old town of Aviles is a pleasant surprise after the industrial approach. The Calle Galiana and Calle Rivero are arcaded streets with stone buildings, shops, and bars. The arcades keep you dry in the rain (which is frequent in Asturias) and create a distinctive urban atmosphere. Several medieval palaces, churches, and the Plaza de Espana add architectural interest. The old quarter is compact and can be explored in an hour. It is far more attractive than the city's industrial reputati

Oscar Niemeyer's cultural centre sits on the harbour, a swooping white concrete building that looks like nothing else in Asturias. The Brazilian architect, famous for designing Brasilia, created this centre late in his career, and it opened in 2011. The building hosts exhibitions, concerts, and films. Even from the outside, the organic curves and the contrast with the industrial harbour are striking. It is Niemeyer's only building in Spain.

You are in the heartland of fabada asturiana, the rich bean and sausage stew that is the defining dish of Asturian cuisine. The bars and restaurants in the old quarter serve it alongside other local specialities: cachopo (stuffed breaded beef), pote asturiano (vegetable and pork stew), and rice pudding for dessert. The cider flows freely. Aviles is a working city and the food reflects that: hearty, generous, and honest.

The stage from Gijon to Aviles is widely acknowledged as the least scenic section of the Camino del Norte, with industrial zones and pavement walking. Aviles itself is the turning point. From here, the coast opens up into western Asturias: Cudillero, Luarca, Navia, and the approach to Galicia. The beaches become wilder, the villages smaller, the crowds thinner. If the Gijon-Aviles stage tested your patience, the stages ahead will restore your faith in the Norte. The best is yet to come.