Baiona

The medieval fortress occupies the entire peninsula and its ramparts form a walking circuit of about 3 km. The views from the walls are spectacular: the Ria de Vigo stretching inland, the Cies Islands offshore, the Atlantic to the west, and the town below. The fortress now houses a Parador hotel, but the walls and grounds are open to the public. Allow at least an hour for the circuit. Late afternoon light is particularly beautiful here.

A full-scale replica of the Pinta, one of the three ships that sailed with Columbus to the Americas, is moored in the harbour and serves as a museum. Baiona was the first European town to learn of the discovery of the New World when the original Pinta arrived on 1 March 1493. The ship is surprisingly small. Standing on the deck and imagining the Atlantic crossing puts the bravery (or madness) of the voyage into perspective.

Baiona's waterfront promenade is lined with seafood restaurants that serve the catch from the Ria de Vigo. The local specialities include pulpo a feira (Galician-style octopus), zamburinas (small scallops), mejillones (mussels), and fresh grilled fish. The Albarino wine from the nearby Rias Baixas is crisp and aromatic and pairs perfectly with everything from the sea. Eating on the promenade with the harbour and the fortress in view is a memorable experience.

The Islas Cies, a small archipelago in the mouth of the Ria de Vigo, are visible from Baiona and are considered one of the most beautiful island groups in Europe. The beaches have been compared to the Caribbean. In summer, ferries run from Baiona and Vigo to the islands (booking is essential and visitor numbers are limited). Even from a distance, seeing the islands shimmer on the horizon adds to Baiona's coastal magic.

The medieval centre of Baiona has narrow granite streets, small squares, and traditional Galician architecture. The Colegiata de Santa Maria is a Romanesque-Gothic church worth visiting. The town is compact and walkable, and discovering the side streets away from the waterfront reveals a quieter, more local side of Baiona. The bakeries sell excellent empanadas and pastries.

Baiona is 116 km from Santiago, comfortably over the 100 km minimum for the Compostela certificate. Many pilgrims start their Camino here rather than in Porto. If you have been walking from Porto, you have already covered roughly 150 km. You are now well into the second half of the Coastal route. Santiago is within reach. From Baiona, the route turns inland after Vigo and merges with the Central route at Redondela.