Barcelos

The Feira de Barcelos, held every Thursday in the Campo da Republica, is the largest weekly market in Portugal and has been running since the 15th century. Farmers sell cheese, smoked meats, bread, honey, fruit, and wine. Other stalls sell pottery, ceramics (including the famous roosters), clothing, and household goods. The atmosphere is lively and authentic. If your schedule allows, time your walk to be in Barcelos on a Thursday. It is one of the best market experiences on any Camino route.

The Ponte Medieval de Barcelos spans the Rio Cavado and is one of the most beautiful river crossings on the Camino Portugues. The stone arches, the river flowing beneath, and the town rising above create a scene that has barely changed in centuries. The bridge is the traditional entry point to Barcelos for pilgrims arriving from the south. Pause in the middle and look upstream and downstream.

The ruined medieval palace of the Counts of Barcelos sits on a hilltop above the river. The palace was built in the 15th century and destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. The ruins now house an open-air archaeological museum with medieval stone crosses, sarcophagi, and coats of arms. The setting, overlooking the river and the bridge, is atmospheric. The Cruz do Senhor do Galo, the stone cross associated with the Barcelos rooster legend, is here.

The Galo de Barcelos, the colourful ceramic rooster, is the unofficial symbol of Portugal and originates from this town. Statues and representations of the rooster appear everywhere, from the main square to shop windows to cafe tables. The ceramic versions, hand-painted in bright colours, are sold throughout the town and make the most traditional Portuguese souvenir. The legend behind the rooster is directly connected to the Camino de Santiago.

Barcelos sits in the Minho region, famous for its rich cuisine. Rojoes a Minhota (cubed pork fried in lard with cumin and garlic) is the local speciality. It is often served with papas de sarrabulho (a thick pork blood and bread porridge) and arroz de sarrabulho (rice cooked in the same blood-based stock). These are hearty, traditional dishes designed for people who work hard. After a day of walking, they are perfect. Wash it down with Vinho Verde.