Bilbao

Frank Gehry's titanium-clad building is one of the most important works of contemporary architecture in the world. The building itself is the primary exhibit, with its flowing curves, reflective surfaces, and dramatic scale. Inside, the galleries host rotating exhibitions of modern and contemporary art. Jeff Koons' Puppy, a giant flower-covered sculpture, guards the entrance. Even if modern art is not your interest, the building alone is worth the visit. It changed the destiny of an entire city.

The old town's seven original streets (the Siete Calles) are lined with pintxos bars that serve elaborate bite-sized creations on their counters. The tradition is the same as in San Sebastian: move from bar to bar, eating one or two pintxos at each, with a glass of txakoli or a zurito. Bilbao's pintxos are arguably less famous than San Sebastian's but equally good, and the prices are lower. The atmosphere in the narrow streets on a Friday evening, with locals and pilgrims crowding the bars, is e

The riverfront promenade connects the old town to the Guggenheim and beyond, passing through the regenerated areas that define modern Bilbao. The walk is flat, pleasant, and full of architectural interest. The Zubizuri (White Bridge) by Santiago Calatrava, the Iberdrola Tower, and the Guggenheim itself all sit on the river. The transformation from industrial waterway to cultural corridor is visible with every step.

One of the largest covered markets in Europe, the Mercado de la Ribera sits on the riverbank in the old town. The ground floor sells fresh fish, meat, cheese, fruit, and vegetables. The upper floors have been converted into a food hall with pintxos bars and restaurants. The market is an excellent place to see the raw ingredients that fuel the Basque food culture, and to eat a leisurely lunch surrounded by locals.

Bilbao is the best rest day opportunity on the Camino del Norte between San Sebastian and Santander. You have walked through the Basque mountains for a week. Your body is tired. The Guggenheim, the food, the old town, and the general energy of the city make it a place worth lingering. A day off in Bilbao is not wasted. It is invested.