Caminha

Caminha is a crossroads. You can take the boat across the Rio Minho to A Guarda and continue on the Coastal route through Galicia (via Oia, Baiona, Vigo). Or you can walk inland along the river to Valenca and cross into Spain at Tui, joining the Central route. The Coastal route stays by the sea for two more days. The Central route passes through more historic towns. Both are excellent. Ask other pilgrims what they chose and why.

The Praca do Conselheiro Silva Torres is one of the finest small-town squares in northern Portugal. Granite buildings with carved balconies surround a central fountain. Cafes with outdoor seating fill the edges. The atmosphere is relaxed and the architecture is beautiful. The square has the feel of a place that has been the centre of town life for centuries, because it has.

The Gothic parish church on the main square has a remarkable treasure: a Mudejar (Moorish-influenced) wooden ceiling that is unique in the Minho region. The carved stonework of the exterior and the interior columns are also fine. The church is a quiet, atmospheric space that rewards a few minutes of exploration.

Caminha has excellent restaurants in and around the main square. This is your last night in Portugal if you are continuing on the Coastal route. Order the fresh fish, the polvo (octopus), or whatever the daily special is. Drink Vinho Verde. Eat pasteis de nata for dessert. Tomorrow you cross into Spain and the food, while still excellent, changes character. Savour the last Portuguese flavours.

A short walk from the town centre takes you to the point where the Rio Minho meets the Atlantic Ocean. The view is expansive: the river, the sea, the Spanish coast on the far bank, and the small island of Insua in the middle of the estuary with its old fortress. The scale of the landscape here is dramatic. You are about to cross an international border by boat. Not many Camino routes offer that.