Castro-Urdiales

The Gothic church sits dramatically on the headland above the harbour, its buttresses and pinnacles outlined against the sky and the sea. Built in the 13th century, it is one of the finest Gothic churches in Cantabria. Inside, the vaulted nave and the carved stone details are beautiful. The church, together with the ruined Templar castle and the lighthouse beside it, creates a skyline that is unmistakably Castro Urdiales. Visit at sunset when the light on the stone is golden.

The fishing harbour is the heart of Castro Urdiales. Colourful boats line the quays, the seafood restaurants face the water, and the church and castle tower above. The harbour promenade is pleasant at any time of day but particularly atmospheric in the early evening when the fishing boats return and the restaurants begin to fill. The town has a beach (Playa de Brazomar) adjacent to the harbour that is good for a swim on a warm day.

Castro Urdiales is a fishing town and the seafood is excellent. The restaurants on the harbour serve fresh fish, grilled sardines, calamari, and the local speciality of rabas (battered squid). The Cantabrian anchovies from nearby Santona are famous across Spain and appear on most menus. Pair with a glass of white wine or a cold beer. You are now in Cantabria, and the food culture is shifting from Basque to Cantabrian. Both are excellent.

Next to the church, the ruins of a Knights Templar castle sit on the headland. The castle is mostly ruined but the remaining walls and the position on the rocky promontory are atmospheric. The lighthouse beside it is still functioning. Together, the church, castle, and lighthouse form a medieval ensemble that is unique on the Camino del Norte. Walk around the headland for the best views.