Comillas

One of Antoni Gaudi's earliest works, built in 1885 as a summer villa for a friend of the Marques de Comillas. The building is covered in ceramic tiles decorated with sunflowers, and the tower, the ironwork, and the playful details anticipate the organic style that Gaudi would develop later in Barcelona. The interior is open to visitors and the rooms are inventive and delightful. It is one of only three Gaudi buildings outside Catalonia. For architecture lovers, this alone justifies the stop in

The university sits on the hilltop above the town and is a Modernista masterpiece. Designed by Joan Martorell and later worked on by Lluis Domenech i Montaner, the building combines Gothic revival, Mudejar, and Modernista elements in a grand, confident design. The grounds are open and the views from the hilltop over the town and the coast are excellent. The building is no longer a university but is used for conferences and events.

Comillas has a small sandy cove below the town centre. The beach is sheltered and attractive, with the Pontifical University visible on the hilltop above. On a warm afternoon, a swim here after walking from Santillana del Mar is a genuine pleasure. The beach has a few facilities but is not heavily developed, which adds to its charm.

The neo-Gothic palace was built for the Marques de Comillas in the 1880s and sits in landscaped grounds near the Gaudi building. The palace interior features carved wooden ceilings, stained glass, and furnishings designed by leading craftsmen of the period. The adjacent Capilla-Panteon (chapel and mausoleum) was designed by Joan Martorell and contains elaborate stone carving. The concentration of high-quality architecture in this small town is remarkable.

Comillas has several good restaurants near the beach and in the old town. Fresh fish, grilled meats, and Cantabrian specialities are the staples. Try the local anchovy, the rabas, or whatever is fresh. The restaurants with sea views are particularly pleasant for a long, slow dinner. After Santillana del Mar (which can feel touristy) and before the more remote Asturian stages ahead, Comillas is a relaxed and civilised stopping point.