Cudillero

The view from the harbour looking back up the ravine is the iconic image of Cudillero. Brightly painted houses rise in tiers up the steep hillsides on both sides, with the narrow harbour in the centre and the sea behind you. The effect is theatrical, almost unreal. The best time to see it is in the late afternoon when the sun illuminates the western-facing houses. Sit on the harbour wall with a coffee and take it in.

Cudillero is a fishing village and the restaurants around the harbour serve the catch of the day. Grilled fish, fried calamari, and the Asturian fish stew (caldeirada) are the staples. The portions are generous and the quality is high. The village is small enough that every restaurant sources from the same harbour. You cannot go wrong. Order whatever is freshest and pair it with Asturian cider.

Several paths lead up from the harbour to viewpoints (miradores) on the hillsides above the village. The views from these points over the village rooftops, the harbour, and the open sea are beautiful. The climb is short but steep. From the top, the scale of the ravine and the smallness of the harbour become apparent. The Atlantic stretches to the horizon. The village below looks like a painting.