Deba

Between Zumaia and Deba, the coastline reveals the famous flysch geological formations: tilted layers of rock stretching back over 60 million years, including the boundary layer that marks the asteroid impact that killed the dinosaurs. The cliffs are part of the Basque Coast UNESCO Global Geopark. If you walked the coastal variant today, you passed directly along these cliffs. The geology is extraordinary and the visual impact of the layered rock meeting the sea is unforgettable.

The Gothic church in the centre of Deba has a remarkable carved portal with detailed stone figures. The interior is spacious and the cloister is worth a look. For a small town, the church is unexpectedly grand, a reminder that Deba was once a prosperous port and trading centre. The church provides a welcome moment of calm before the demanding mountain stage ahead.

Deba has a sandy beach at the river mouth that is pleasant for a late-afternoon walk. This is the last coastal beach you will see for several days, as the Camino turns inland from here into the Basque mountains. Enjoy the sea air, the sound of the waves, and the view along the coast. Tomorrow you climb into the hills and the character of the route changes completely.

The next stage, from Deba to Markina-Xemein, is one of the most physically demanding on the Camino del Norte. The route climbs steeply into the mountains immediately after leaving town. There are no towns or villages for the first 16 km, only a few restaurants along the way. Buy water (at least 1.5 litres), food for the trail, and have a good breakfast before you leave. The mountain section is beautiful but remote. Preparation matters.