Espalion

The 11th-century Old Bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful bridges on Le Chemin du Puy. Built from red sandstone, its arches span the Lot with an elegance that belies its age. Walk across it slowly and look downriver towards the old tannery buildings with their arched galleries reflected in the water. The view from the bridge is one of the iconic images of Le Chemin du Puy.

The old tannery buildings along the Lot are unique to Espalion. Their arcaded galleries, built directly over the river to allow hides to be washed in the flowing water, give the riverfront a distinctly Venetian quality. The buildings are now residential but the architecture is preserved. Walk along the far bank of the river for the best views of the calquieres with the Pont Vieux in the foreground and the old town rising behind.

Just outside the town centre, the Romanesque chapel of Perse (Eglise Saint-Hilarian de Perse) is a 12th-century gem. The carved tympanum above the entrance depicts the Last Judgement with vivid, slightly naive figures. The building sits in a quiet cemetery on the banks of the Lot and is one of the finest small Romanesque churches in the Aveyron. It is a short detour from the GR65 and well worth the few extra minutes.

The Marcillac appellation is one of the smallest and most distinctive in southwest France. The wines are red, made from the Fer Servadou grape (locally called Mansois), and have a characteristic rusticity with flavours of dark berries and a faint mineral edge. They are perfect with the local charcuterie and cheese. Order a glass or a carafe at any restaurant in Espalion. The vineyards are visible on the hillsides south of town, terraced into the red sandstone slopes.

After the high, exposed walking of the Aubrac and Margeride, the Lot valley is a balm. The air is warmer, the vegetation is lush, and the river brings life and movement to the landscape. Sit at a cafe terrace overlooking the Lot, order a coffee, and watch the water flow. From here, Conques is two stages away. The finest moment on Le Chemin du Puy is approaching.