Ferrol

This 18th-century neighbourhood was planned as a model Enlightenment district for naval officers and their families. The grid layout, uniform facades, and wide streets are unlike anything else in Galicia's typically organic medieval towns. The architecture is elegant and restrained. Walking through the Magdalena feels like stepping into a different era, one of order, reason, and imperial ambition. The neighbourhood also has some of Ferrol's best restaurants and cafes.

The medieval co-cathedral in the old town is where most pilgrims collect their credential and receive their first stamp. The building is a mix of Romanesque and Baroque elements, with a pleasant plaza in front. The interior is cool and atmospheric. This is where your Camino Ingles officially begins, following a tradition that stretches back to the medieval English, Irish, and Scandinavian pilgrims who landed at this harbour.

Ferrol's deep natural harbour is one of the finest in Europe and has been a naval base for centuries. The waterfront promenade offers views across the harbour to the dockyards and the hills on the far side. The Museo Naval (Naval Museum) has exhibits on Ferrol's shipbuilding history and Spain's maritime past. The narrow entrance to the ria, guarded by the Castillo de San Felipe on one side and the Castillo de la Palma on the other, is a dramatic piece of military geography.

Ferrol is a port city and the seafood is superb. Try the pulpo a feira (Galician octopus), the percebes (goose barnacles, expensive but unforgettable), the mejillones (mussels), and the empanada de atun (tuna pie). The tapas bars in the old town and around the Plaza de Armas serve generous portions at reasonable prices. Pair your meal with a glass of Albarino white wine from the Rias Baixas coast. The Galician food tradition starts here and only gets better as you walk towards Santiago.

The Camino Ingles exists because medieval pilgrims from England, Ireland, Scandinavia, and other northern European countries sailed to Galicia rather than walking across France and Spain. They landed at Ferrol or A Coruna and walked the remaining distance to Santiago. Some came for devotion, others for adventure, and some undoubtedly for trade. Standing on Ferrol's harbour, looking at the narrow entrance to the ria, you can imagine the ships arriving after weeks at sea. You are walking the final