Foncebadón

Foncebadon is a semi-abandoned mountain village that the Camino revival has brought partially back to life. It sits high in the Montes de León at nearly 1,500 metres, and the views from the surrounding hills are extraordinary. Until the 1990s it was almost completely deserted, but pilgrim demand has brought a handful of albergues and bars back to the crumbling stone buildings.

The village has a wild, atmospheric quality that is quite unlike anything else on the route. The half-ruined stone houses, the mountain cold even in summer, the exposed location on the ridge, and the sense of being very high up all give Foncebadon a character that many pilgrims find deeply affecting. It is the last significant stop before the Cruz de Ferro, just 2km further along the path.

The Cruz de Ferro, an iron cross on a tall wooden pole surrounded by a great mound of stones left by pilgrims from around the world, is one of the most emotionally significant moments of the entire Camino. Many pilgrims carry a stone from home and leave it at the foot of the cross. Staying in Foncebadon allows you to visit the Cruz de Ferro at dawn, in solitude, before the day's pilgrims arrive.