Gijón / Xixón

Eduardo Chillida's monumental concrete sculpture sits at the top of the Cerro de Santa Catalina, the hill above the old quarter of Cimadevilla. The sculpture is an open frame that draws your eye to the horizon, the sky, and the sea. Stand inside it and look through to the Cantabrian Sea stretching to the horizon. The simplicity of the concept and the power of the location make it one of the most memorable public artworks on any Camino route. The walk up from the harbour takes about 10 minutes.

The city beach is a 1.5 km crescent of golden sand in the heart of Gijon. The promenade runs the full length and is lined with cafes, bars, and benches. On a warm day, swim. On any day, walk the full length and back. The beach is urban but beautiful, and the sound of the waves against the sand is a constant reminder that you are on the northern coast of Spain.

The old fishermen's quarter occupies the headland between the harbour and the beach. The narrow streets, stone houses, and traditional cider bars have a weathered, authentic character. The Termas Romanas (Roman baths) in the old quarter reveal that Gijon was a settlement of importance even in Roman times. The Palacio de Revillagigedo, a Baroque palace on the harbour, now serves as an art centre. Cimadevilla is compact and walkable, and the views from the headland are panoramic.

The Cuesta del Cholo is a sloping street in the old quarter lined with traditional cider bars. If you want to experience the Asturian cider culture at its most concentrated and authentic, this is the street. The bars are small, loud, and lively. The cider is poured from height, drunk in a gulp, and the glass is refilled. The food served alongside (cheese, chorizo, tortilla) is simple and good. This is Gijon at its most local.

Gijon is a good rest day candidate, particularly because the stage ahead to Aviles (25 km) involves significant industrial walking that is widely considered the least enjoyable section of the Camino del Norte. A day of rest in Gijon, with the beach, the cider bars, and the Chillida sculpture, prepares you mentally for the gritty stage ahead. After Aviles, the coast becomes beautiful again. Gijon is the last big city before the route heads into western Asturias and then Galicia.