Le Puy-en-Velay

Every morning at 7am, pilgrims gather in the Cathedral of Notre-Dame du Puy for a brief blessing before setting out on the GR65. The priest addresses the gathered walkers, offers prayers for a safe journey, and sends them on their way through the cathedral's lower doors and down the stone steps into the old town. It is a simple, moving ceremony that has been repeated daily for decades. Arriving early and sitting in the quiet, dark cathedral before the blessing begins is the first contemplative m

A 10th-century chapel perched on top of a volcanic needle, reached by climbing 268 steps carved into the rock. The chapel was built in 969 by Bishop Godescalc upon his return from Santiago, making it directly connected to the pilgrimage you are about to undertake. The climb is steep but the views from the top are extraordinary, looking across the volcanic basin to the cathedral, the Virgin statue, and the rooftops of Le Puy. The interior of the chapel is small, intimate, and decorated with faded

The cathedral is built on a volcanic outcrop and reached by climbing a grand stone staircase from the old town. The building is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, with Byzantine and Moorish influences visible in its arches and decoration. The Black Madonna (Vierge Noire) in the sanctuary is a revered statue that has drawn pilgrims for centuries. The cloisters, with their polychrome stonework and carved capitals, are among the finest in France.

Le Puy's old town (the medieval quarter below the cathedral) is a maze of narrow streets, stone staircases, artisan shops, and small restaurants. The Rue des Tables leads up from the lower town to the cathedral steps and is the traditional pilgrim exit route. The Place du Plot is the lively central square, surrounded by cafes. The old town has a strong craft tradition, particularly in lace making, which has been practised here since the 15th century.

Le Puy is famous for its green lentils (lentilles vertes du Puy), which have AOC (appellation d'origine controlee) status. These small, dark green lentils hold their shape when cooked and have a distinctive nutty, slightly peppery flavour. They appear on every restaurant menu in town: in salads, soups, with sausages, or as a side dish. Try them in a salade tiede (warm salad) with lardons and a poached egg. They are also sold dried in shops throughout the town and make an excellent lightweight Ca

The 16-metre tall cast-iron statue of the Virgin Mary stands on the Rocher Corneille, another volcanic plug in the centre of Le Puy. Cast from 213 cannons captured at the Siege of Sebastopol in 1856, the statue is reached by a short, steep climb. From the base, the views across the volcanic basin and the city are superb. The statue, the cathedral, and the Chapel of Saint-Michel create a triangular skyline that is unlike any other city in France.