Leon

The Cathedral of Leon is often called the most beautiful Gothic cathedral in Spain. Its defining feature is the stained glass: over 1,800 square metres of medieval and Renaissance windows that fill the interior with coloured light. On a sunny afternoon, the effect is overwhelming. The building itself is lighter and more delicate than the heavy cathedrals of Burgos or Santiago, deliberately designed to maximise the glass. Allow at least an hour, and try to visit when the sun is shining.

Leon's "Wet Quarter" is one of the best tapas neighbourhoods in Spain. The tradition here is that every drink comes with a free tapa, and the tapas are generous. The narrow streets around the Plaza de San Martin are packed with small bars, each with its own speciality. Order a glass of wine, eat the free tapa, move to the next bar. You can eat a full dinner this way without ever ordering food.

Often overshadowed by the cathedral, San Isidoro is extraordinary in its own right. The Royal Pantheon, a crypt beneath the church containing the tombs of the medieval Kings of Leon, has Romanesque ceiling frescoes so vivid and well preserved that it is known as the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art." The museum upstairs contains the Chalice of Dona Urraca, which some scholars have controversially identified as the Holy Grail.

One of only three buildings that Antoni Gaudi designed outside Catalonia. This neo-Gothic building on the Plaza de San Marcelo was built in 1894 and now houses a museum with a collection of Spanish art from the 19th and 20th centuries. The building itself is the main attraction, with Gaudi's distinctive style visible in the turrets, the ironwork, and the dragon-slaying statue of Saint George above the entrance.

The river runs through the western side of the city with tree-lined paths on both banks. After days of Meseta walking, the green shade and sound of water feel luxurious. The park areas near the Puente de San Marcos are popular with locals jogging, walking dogs, and sitting on benches in the evening.

Leon is a food city. The two local specialities to try are cecina (smoked dried beef, sliced thin with olive oil) and morcilla leonesa (Leon-style blood sausage with onions). Both appear on almost every bar menu. Also try botillo del Bierzo if you see it, a cured meat dish from the mountains ahead. The Mercado del Conde Luna, a covered market in the old town, is great for fresh produce and local cheeses.

Leon is one of the best places on the entire Camino to take a rest day. The city has enough to fill two full days of sightseeing, eating, and relaxing. Your body has been walking for two weeks or more. The mountains of the Cruz de Ferro and O Cebreiro are ahead. A day off here, doing laundry, eating well, and sleeping in, is not a luxury. It is an investment in the weeks to come.