Lisbon

The official starting point of the Camino Portugues. This small church in the Alfama district is easy to miss, but it is where the pilgrimage begins. A sign next to the front door marks 610 km to Santiago de Compostela, and the first yellow arrow is spray-painted on the gate. Stand in front of it, take a breath, and step onto the Camino.

The oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon, a maze of narrow streets, tiled facades, and steep staircases tumbling down to the Tagus. The Se Cathedral, the Castelo de Sao Jorge, and countless small bars and restaurants are all here. Walk slowly, get lost, and listen for the sound of fado drifting from doorways in the evening. The Alfama survived the 1755 earthquake that destroyed much of the city, and its medieval layout remains largely intact.

A 16th-century fortified tower on the bank of the Tagus, built to guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbour during the Age of Discovery. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most recognisable buildings in Portugal. Nearby, the Jeronimos Monastery is equally impressive, with its ornate Manueline cloisters. Both are in the Belem neighbourhood, about 6 km west of the city centre.

The iconic yellow tram climbs through the steepest streets of the Alfama, Graca, and Baixa neighbourhoods, rattling past churches, miradouros (viewpoints), and tiled buildings. It is touristy but genuinely fun. Board at Martim Moniz or Praca do Comercio and ride the full loop. Alternatively, walk the same route on foot and save the tram fare for another pastel de nata.

Lisbon's hilltop viewpoints offer some of the best sunsets in Europe. The Miradouro da Graca and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia both look out across the Alfama rooftops to the Tagus. Bring a drink, find a bench, and watch the light change. Tomorrow you start walking. Tonight, enjoy the city.

The Portuguese custard tart is one of the great small pleasures of this country. The most famous bakery is Pasteis de Belem in the Belem neighbourhood, which has been making them since 1837. But every cafe and padaria in Lisbon serves its own version, and the best ones you eat will probably be from a place nobody has heard of. Order them warm, dust them with cinnamon, and have a coffee alongside.