Llanes

A clifftop walking path that follows the coast east from the harbour, with views over hidden coves, crashing waves, and the green hills behind the town. The path is about 1 km each way and is one of the finest short coastal walks in Asturias. On a clear day, the contrast between the turquoise water, the white sand in the coves below, and the green clifftops is extraordinary. Walk it at sunset for the best light.

The concrete cubes along the harbour wall, painted by Basque artist Agustin Ibarrola in vivid colours and bold geometric patterns, have become the most recognisable image of Llanes. The cubes were originally breakwater blocks; the art transformed them into a public gallery on the edge of the sea. The installation is best seen from the harbour wall or from the Paseo de San Pedro above.

The coast around Llanes has dozens of beaches and coves, many hidden between rocky headlands. Playa de Toro, just west of town, has dramatic rock formations rising from the sand. Playa del Sablon is the town beach, small and sheltered. For the adventurous, Playa de Gulpiyuri (a short detour off the Camino) is a tiny inland beach fed by the sea through an underground cave system. The beaches are the great attraction of the Llanes coastline and several are accessible on foot from the town.

The medieval centre of Llanes retains sections of its original defensive walls, several tower houses, and the Basilica de Santa Maria del Conceyu, a Gothic church with a fine rose window. The narrow streets are full of traditional shops, bars, and restaurants. The harbour area is the social centre of the town, particularly in the evening when the restaurants fill and the light fades over the sea. Llanes has a lived-in quality that feels genuinely Asturian rather than touristic.

Llanes is a fishing town and the seafood is excellent. The harbour restaurants serve the daily catch grilled, fried, or in caldeirada (fish stew). The local sidra (Asturian cider) is the natural accompaniment to everything. You are now deep in Asturias, the cider country of Spain. Order a bottle, watch the waiter pour it from height, and drink it in a single gulp. The ritual is as important as the taste.