Luarca / Ḷḷuarca

The old quarter above the harbour has narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and traditional cider bars. The buildings are modest but their position, stacked up the hillside above the water, gives the quarter a dramatic feel. The harbour below is still active, with fishing boats moored alongside the quay. Walking through the quarter in the evening, with the smell of grilled fish drifting from the restaurants and the sound of the sea in the background, is one of the loveliest experiences on the Nort

A path from the harbour leads to the headland where a small lighthouse and the Capilla de la Atalaya sit above the sea. Beside them, the town cemetery is perched on the cliff edge with views stretching along the coast in both directions. The location is extraordinary. The graves face the ocean, and the sound of the waves is constant. It is one of the most moving and unusual cemeteries you will encounter on any walk.

Luarca's harbour restaurants serve fresh fish and shellfish from the Cantabrian Sea. The town is known for its pixín (monkfish) and its octopus. The cider houses serve fabada and other Asturian specialities alongside the seafood. Eating at a harbour-side table, watching the fishing boats and the seabirds, is a simple pleasure that Luarca delivers perfectly. The food is honest, the portions generous, and the prices fair.

A short walk from the town centre, the Parque de la Vida is a small natural area with paths through woodland and meadows. For pilgrims who have been walking all day, a gentle stroll through the park is a pleasant way to stretch the legs without a pack. The park is quiet and green, a contrast to the bustle of the harbour below.

Luarca has a clarity that other Asturian towns lack. The white buildings, the green hills, the blue harbour. The colour palette is simple and beautiful. After days of walking through the sometimes grey and industrial sections west of Gijon, Luarca is a tonic. The town feels like a reward. Many pilgrims describe the descent into Luarca as one of their favourite moments on the Camino del Norte.