Markina-Xemein

One of the most unusual churches in the Basque Country. The church is hexagonal in plan, built around three enormous natural boulders that were considered sacred in pre-Christian times. The rocks form a natural altar inside the hexagonal space. The combination of the ancient stones and the Baroque church built around them is strange and powerful. No other church on any Camino route is quite like this. It is a short walk from the town centre and should not be missed.

A 7 km detour (or extension of the next day's stage) leads to the Monasterio de Zenarruza, a working Cistercian monastery in a beautiful mountain setting. Pilgrims can stay overnight and eat with the monks for a donation. The monastery has a Romanesque church, a peaceful cloister, and an atmosphere of genuine contemplation. Many Camino del Norte pilgrims describe the night at Zenarruza as one of the highlights of the entire route.

Markina is not a pintxos town like San Sebastian. The restaurants here serve traditional Basque home cooking: thick bean stews, grilled meats, fresh fish, and cheese. The portions are generous and the cooking is straightforward and satisfying. Try the local cider or a glass of Rioja with your meal. The food here is designed for people who work the land and walk the hills. After the mountain crossing from Deba, it tastes exactly right.

Markina is one of the most important pelota towns in the Basque Country, having produced several champion players. The fronton (pelota court) in the town centre hosts regular matches. If you are lucky enough to arrive on a match day, watching the speed, power, and skill of the players is an unforgettable experience. Pelota is the traditional sport of the Basque people and it is played with an intensity that reflects the culture.