Mérida

The Roman Theatre, built in 15 BC, is the most spectacular Roman monument in Spain. The two-storey marble stage wall (scaenae frons) is largely intact, with columns, statues, and carved details that have survived two thousand years. The theatre seats 6,000 and is still used for performances in summer. Next to it, the Amphitheatre held gladiatorial combat and animal fights for an audience of 15,000. Both are part of the same ticket and can be visited together. Allow at least an hour and go early

The Puente Romano across the Rio Guadiana is one of the longest surviving Roman bridges in the world, stretching over 790 metres with 60 arches. Walking across it is the traditional entry to Merida on the Via de la Plata. The bridge has carried traffic for two thousand years and still carries pedestrians today. The river below is wide and slow, and the view of the city from the bridge is beautiful. This is the most historically significant river crossing on any Camino route.

The national museum of Roman art, designed by architect Rafael Moneo and opened in 1986, is one of the finest museums in Spain. The building itself, with its soaring brick arches inspired by Roman architecture, is a masterpiece. The collection includes mosaics, sculpture, pottery, glass, coins, and jewellery from Augusta Emerita. The mosaics are particularly impressive, covering entire floors with intricate designs. The museum provides context for everything you see in the city outside.

The Temple of Diana stands in the centre of modern Merida, its Corinthian columns rising from the pavement of a residential street. The temple is the best-preserved Roman religious building in Spain. A Renaissance palace was built into the temple structure in the 16th century, which ironically helped preserve the columns by incorporating them into the new building. The effect of ancient Roman columns surrounded by modern cafes and apartments is surreal and beautiful.

Merida demands at least a full rest day. The Roman Theatre, the Amphitheatre, the museum, the bridge, the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Trajan, the aqueducts (Los Milagros and San Lazaro), and the smaller ruins scattered throughout the city cannot be properly seen in a single afternoon. Add the excellent restaurants, the pleasant modern centre, and the opportunity to rest after 200 km of walking through Extremadura, and a rest day here is essential rather than optional.

Merida has excellent restaurants ranging from traditional to modern. The regional specialities are the same as in Zafra (jamon iberico, Torta del Casar, migas) but the restaurant scene is larger and more varied. The area around the Temple of Diana and the Plaza de Espana has a concentration of good places to eat. Try the retinta beef (from the local breed of cattle), the gazpacho extremeno, and the local wines from the Ribera del Guadiana denomination. The food is hearty, the portions generous,