Muxia

The sanctuary sits dramatically on the rocky headland above the Atlantic, surrounded by massive boulders and crashing waves. The Baroque church was built in the 17th century on a site of much older worship. Inside, the statue of the Virgin and the simple stone interior are moving. Outside, the rocks, the sea spray, and the sound of the ocean create an atmosphere that is equal parts spiritual and primal. This is one of the most powerful places on any Camino route.

The headland around the sanctuary is scattered with enormous boulders that legend identifies as the remains of the Virgin's stone boat. The Pedra de Abalar (the rocking stone) once moved when pushed, though it is now fixed in place. The Pedra dos Cadris (the sails) is a flat stone that pilgrims traditionally crawl under nine times to cure back pain. The Pedra do Timon (the rudder) completes the trio. Whether you believe the legend or not, the rocks are extraordinary.

Visit the tourist office in the town centre to collect the Muxiana, the certificate confirming that you have walked to Muxia. Like the Fisterrana in Fisterra, it is a separate document from the Compostela and specific to this route. If you have walked from Santiago to Fisterra and then on to Muxia, you now hold three certificates. Your Camino is truly complete.

Muxia is a fishing village and the seafood is superb. The restaurants near the harbour serve the day's catch, simply prepared. Try the caldeirada (fish stew), the grilled sardines, or whatever is freshest. This is the Costa da Morte, and the fishermen here work some of the most dangerous waters in Europe. The food reflects the place: honest, fresh, and unforgettable.

If you arrived from Fisterra, you have just walked 28 km along one of the most beautiful coastal paths in Spain. If you arrived directly from Olveiroa, the approach was through green hills and farmland. Either way, spend some time walking the headland around the sanctuary. The views along the Costa da Morte are wild and dramatic, with cliffs, coves, and the open Atlantic stretching to the horizon.

Sit on the rocks near the sanctuary and watch the Atlantic. The waves crash against the headland with extraordinary force, sending spray high into the air. The Costa da Morte earned its name from the countless shipwrecks along this coast. Sitting here, with the wind and the salt and the sound of the ocean, you understand why ancient people believed this was the edge of the world. Your Camino ends here. Not with a cathedral, but with the sea.