Ourense

The thermal springs along the Rio Mino are the defining experience of Ourense. Several pools of naturally heated water (some reaching 67 degrees Celsius) are open to the public, free of charge, and accessible 24 hours a day. The most popular are the Pozas de Outariz and the Termas de Chavasqueira, both along the river below the Ponte Vella. After weeks (or months) of walking, sitting in naturally heated water while the river flows past and the city glows above is restorative in every sense. Brin

The Catedral de San Martino has a carved portal called the Portico del Paraiso (Portal of Paradise) that is one of the finest Romanesque sculptural ensembles in Galicia. The carved figures of saints, prophets, and musicians are polychrome (painted in their original colours, unlike the now-bare stone of Santiago's Portico de la Gloria) and remarkably expressive. The cathedral interior is spacious and atmospheric, with a Gothic cloister and several notable chapels. The Portico alone is worth the v

The Ponte Vella (Old Bridge) crosses the Rio Mino in seven arches. The bridge has been rebuilt many times since Roman origins, but its position and scale remain impressive. Walking across the bridge, with the thermal pools visible on the riverbank below and the city rising above, is one of the signature moments of Ourense. The bridge is also the starting point for walks along the river, either upstream to more thermal pools or downstream through parkland.

The narrow streets around the cathedral and the Praza Maior are full of tapas bars and restaurants. Ourense has a strong food culture, with local specialities including pulpo a feira (Galician octopus), empanada, lacón con grelos (cured pork shoulder with turnip greens), and the local wines from the Ribeira Sacra and Monterrei denominations. The prices are lower than in Santiago and the quality is equal. A tapas crawl through the old town, ending at the thermal pools, is the perfect Ourense even

Ourense is the last major city before Santiago and an excellent rest day candidate. The thermal springs, the cathedral, the old town, the food, and the atmosphere all justify a day off. If you started in Sevilla, you have walked approximately 900 km. If you started in Zamora or Puebla de Sanabria, you have crossed the mountains and descended into Galicia. Either way, your body has earned a day in hot water. Santiago is 110 km away. Four or five more days of walking. Rest here and finish strong.

Ourense is the official starting point for pilgrims walking the last 100+ km of the Camino Sanabres. Many pilgrims begin here, and the trail becomes noticeably busier from this point. The remaining stages to Santiago pass through green Galician countryside, Romanesque villages, forests, and the monastery of Oseira. At Lalin, the Camino de Invierno joins from the east. The final approach to Santiago is shared with several converging routes. You are close now.