Portomarín

The original Portomarin lies beneath the waters of the Belesar reservoir, which flooded the old town in the 1960s. Before the flooding, the most important buildings were dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt on higher ground. The Iglesia de San Nicolas (also called San Juan), a fortified Romanesque church, was painstakingly moved to its current position overlooking the reservoir. When water levels drop in summer, you can sometimes see the remains of the old town and the original bridge beneath t

A 12th-century fortified church that looks more like a castle than a place of worship. The thick walls, small windows, and crenellated roofline were designed for defence as much as prayer. Inside, the carved doorway and the rose window are impressive. This building was moved from its original location below the reservoir and rebuilt in the main square. Stand in front of it and consider the effort required to save it from the rising water.

The approach to Portomarin involves a steep descent to the Rio Mino, the most important river in Galicia, followed by a long walk across a modern bridge over the reservoir. On a clear day, the blue water stretches in both directions and the town sits on the hillside above. The climb up to the town after the bridge is steep and serves as a reminder that Galicia, despite being the final stretch, is not flat.

Galicia is known for its aguardiente, a strong grape spirit. In Portomarin and the surrounding area, you will also see queimada, a traditional Galician drink made by setting aguardiente alight with sugar, lemon peel, and coffee beans while reciting an incantation to ward off evil spirits. Some restaurants and albergues perform the queimada ceremony for groups of pilgrims. It is theatrical, fun, and the drink is surprisingly smooth.

The Plaza Conde de Fenosa is the heart of the rebuilt town. The Iglesia de San Nicolas dominates one side, and arcaded buildings with bars and restaurants line the others. Pull up a chair at one of the terraces, order a coffee or a glass of wine, and people-watch. The mix of long-distance pilgrims and fresh-faced Sarria starters makes for good observation.