Portomarín

Portomarín has one of the most unusual histories of any town on the Camino. In the 1960s the original town was flooded to create the Belesar reservoir, and the entire population was relocated to a new town on higher ground. The historic buildings, including the remarkable fortress-church of San Nicolás, were dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt on the new site. In drought years, the ruins of the original town emerge from the waters of the reservoir.

The approach to Portomarín is dramatic: a long road bridge high above the reservoir leads into the town, with the wide lake stretching away in both directions. The church of San Nicolás stands prominently in the town square, its military-looking walls more characteristic of a castle than a place of worship. Its Romanesque portal and rose window are exceptional.

Portomarín is a popular overnight stop due to its good facilities and dramatic setting. The view back from the bridge as you leave is one of the most distinctive on the final stretch.