Ribadesella / Ribeseya

The small chapel sits on the clifftop above the harbour entrance, with views that sweep across the old town, the river mouth, the Playa de Santa Marina, and the open sea. The walk up takes about 15 minutes from the harbour and is one of the finest short climbs on the Camino del Norte. The panorama from the top captures the entire town and coast in a single view. Visit in the late afternoon when the light is warm and the beach below is golden.

The cave, about 1 km from the town centre, contains prehistoric paintings dating to around 22,000-10,000 BC. Horses, deer, and other animals are depicted on the cave walls with a skill and expressiveness that is remarkable for their age. Access to the original cave is strictly limited (book in advance), but the modern interpretation centre beside the entrance is excellent and provides context for the paintings. Like Altamira near Santillana del Mar, Tito Bustillo is a reminder that these hills h

Cross the bridge over the Rio Sella to reach the west bank and the Playa de Santa Marina, a long sandy beach backed by colourful Belle Epoque mansions. The beach is one of the finest in Asturias and is popular with swimmers, surfers, and families. The mansions along the promenade were built by wealthy holidaymakers in the early 20th century and give the waterfront an elegant, slightly faded charm. Walk the full length of the beach for the best effect.

The east bank of the river holds the original fishing town: narrow medieval streets, the former fish market, traditional cider bars, and stone buildings. The Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalena contains frescoes from the 1930s depicting scenes from the Civil War. The old town is compact and easy to explore on foot. The atmosphere is quieter and more authentic than the beach side, and the cider bars here are the real thing.

Ribadesella has excellent restaurants on both sides of the river. The seafood is fresh from the Cantabrian Sea and the Rio Sella provides trout and salmon. The local cider (sidra natural) is poured in the traditional Asturian style, from a bottle held high above the glass, and drunk in a single gulp. The ritual is repeated until the bottle is empty. The cider bars in the old town are lively and welcoming. Order a bottle, a plate of local cheese, and whatever fish is fresh today.