Santander

The waterfront promenade runs along the bay from the old town towards the Magdalena Peninsula. The views across the water to the mountains of Cantabria are beautiful, and the promenade is lined with gardens, benches, and cafes. In the evening, the bay catches the sunset and the water turns gold. The Centro Botin, Renzo Piano's cultural centre built over the water, is a striking modern addition to the waterfront.

The Centro Botin is Santander's newest cultural landmark, a building by Renzo Piano that extends over the bay on stilts. The galleries host exhibitions of contemporary art and the rooftop terrace offers panoramic views over the bay and the city. The building itself, with its reflective discs and transparent galleries suspended above the water, is a work of architecture as impressive as the art inside.

The Magdalena Peninsula juts into the bay east of the city centre, topped by the Palacio de la Magdalena, a royal summer palace built for King Alfonso XIII in 1912. The palace grounds are a public park with gardens, walking paths, and views over the bay from every angle. The mini-zoo and the replica galleons on the beach are aimed at families, but the park itself is pleasant for anyone who wants green space and sea air after days of walking.

The Barrio Pesquero (Fishermen's Quarter) near the harbour has a concentration of seafood restaurants that serve the daily catch. The specialities of Cantabria include rabas (battered squid), sobaos (sweet sponge cakes), and anchovies. The dairy products of Cantabria are also excellent, particularly the quesuco (small cheese) and the butter. Santander's food is less celebrated than San Sebastian's or Bilbao's, but the quality of the raw ingredients, particularly the seafood and the dairy, is out

The Sardinero beach is a long crescent of sand on the open coast beyond the bay. It was a fashionable resort in the early 20th century and the Belle Epoque hotels and the Gran Casino still line the waterfront. On a warm day, swimming here after weeks of walking is a genuine luxury. Even on a cool day, the beach is beautiful and the scale of the ocean is humbling.

Santander is a good rest day candidate, particularly if you did not take one in Bilbao. The beaches, the waterfront, the food, and the general elegance of the city make it a pleasant place to spend a day off. You are approximately one third of the way along the Camino del Norte. The stages ahead through Cantabria and into Asturias are beautiful but demanding. A day of rest here is well earned.