Santander, capital of Cantabria and home to a quarter million people, is a major stop on the northern pilgrimage routes where walkers can collect or stamp their credential at the Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption or the Santos Mártires hostel
Santander is the capital of Cantabria and home to around a quarter of a million people, making it the largest city on this stretch of the northern Spanish coast. For pilgrims, it serves as a starting point for several routes, including the Camino del Norte and the Camino Lebaniego.
The city's oldest monument is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, a Gothic structure unusual for having two churches built one on top of the other. Its origins go back to the 12th century, with construction continuing through the 15th, but much of what visitors see today reflects reconstruction after a catastrophic fire in 1941 that tore through the old town. The lower church, known as the Church of the Holy Christ, is where pilgrims can collect a stamp in their credential. Those beginning the Camino Lebaniego can also request a specific credential for that route here. Credentials are also available at the Santos Mártires pilgrim hostel during opening hours.
Beyond its pilgrimage function, Santander rewards exploration. The Botín Centre, designed by Renzo Piano and opened in 2017, sits on the waterfront and has become one of the city's most talked-about cultural spaces. The Pereda promenade, the arcaded Plaza Porticada, and the Esperanza market are all worth time in the city center. A walk or short bus ride out to the Sardinero district brings you to the city's famous beaches and the Grand Casino, built in 1916. Nearby, on a small headland above the sea, the Magdalena Palace is arguably the most striking building in the city. Built in the early 20th century with clear British architectural influences, it was funded by public subscription and gifted to the Spanish royal family. It now hosts conferences and international courses.
Cantabrian cheeses are a genuine highlight of the region and worth seeking out in local shops and markets. Three varieties carry protected designation of origin status: Quesucos de Liébana, Nata de Cantabria, and Picón Bejes-Tresviso, the last of these a pungent blue-green cheese aged in caves in the Picos de Europa.
One practical note for pilgrims leaving the city: official waymarking signs with scallop shells pointing back toward the cathedral appear several kilometers beyond the center, in the opposite direction of travel. They are a known source of confusion and can safely be ignored.
Every kind of bed in one place: online booking, direct-contact albergues, walk-ins and donativos. Live prices for your night.
The Camino through town, with prices where the beds are. Amber is the route; each pin is a place to stay.
How to reach your starting point from major cities and airports.
Renfe trains connect Santander from Madrid (4.5 hours via Alvia). FEVE narrow-gauge trains run along the coast to Bilbao (3 hours) and Oviedo (4.5 hours), a scenic option. The station is near the city centre.
Santander Seve Ballesteros Airport is 5 km from the city centre with flights to several European destinations including London (Ryanair, Easyjet). A bus runs from the airport to the centre in 15 minutes.
Alsa runs buses from Madrid (5 hours), Bilbao (1.5 hours), Oviedo (3 hours), and Burgos (2 hours). The bus station is centrally located near the waterfront.
Brittany Ferries runs from Plymouth and Portsmouth (UK) to Santander, making this the easiest Norte start for British pilgrims arriving by sea. Taxis from the ferry terminal or airport are readily available.
Your checklist for arrival day in Santander.
Visit the Cathedral of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion in the city centre or inquire at the local albergue. Santander's pilgrim services are established but less prominent than in the Basque Country.
Our Koala Picks first, then donativos, albergues and hostels, hotels, and everything else. Within each group the best-reviewed places lead.
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Everything you need to know for your time in Santander.
Cathedral of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion or local albergue. Check with the Tourist Office.
Brittany Ferries from Plymouth and Portsmouth arrive here. If coming from the UK by sea, this is the easiest Norte starting point. Allow a full day to recover from the crossing.
