Santillana del Mar

The entire village is a monument. Cobbled streets run between golden stone mansions, tower houses, and palaces, many bearing carved coats of arms above their doorways. The main street connects the two plazas, and every building along it is several centuries old. The stonework, the wooden balconies, the iron balustrades, and the flowers in the window boxes create a townscape of extraordinary beauty. Walk slowly. Look up. This is one of the finest medieval villages in Spain.

The 12th-century Romanesque church is the finest in Cantabria. The cloister is the highlight, with carved capitals depicting biblical scenes, animals, and fantastical creatures with a detail and expressiveness that is remarkable for their age. The church itself has a simple, powerful interior. The building is the reason Santillana exists, having been founded as a monastery to house the relics of Saint Juliana. The religious foundation attracted the noble families who built the houses that surrou

The Museo de Altamira, about 2 km from the village, houses a full-scale replica of the original Altamira cave and its famous prehistoric paintings. The paintings are around 36,000 years old and depict bison, horses, deer, and handprints in vivid ochre and charcoal. The original cave is closed to protect the art, but the Neocueva is so faithfully reproduced that the experience is deeply moving. Standing beneath the painted ceiling and seeing the artistry of people who lived 36,000 years ago is hu

The signature dish of Cantabria is cocido montanes, a rich bean stew with chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), cabbage, and pork ribs. Santillana's restaurants serve it alongside other Cantabrian specialities including sobaos (sweet sponge cakes) and quesadas (cheesecake made with fresh curd). The food is hearty and mountain-influenced, reflecting the Cantabrian landscape. A bowl of cocido montanes after a day of walking is deeply satisfying.

Santillana del Mar is a popular tourist destination and the village can be crowded during the day with tour buses from Santander. The best time to experience Santillana is early morning or evening, when the visitors have gone and the cobbled streets are quiet. As a pilgrim arriving on foot in the late afternoon, you have the advantage. Check into your accommodation, rest, and then walk the village after dinner. In the evening light, with the stone glowing and the streets empty, Santillana is tra