Viana do Castelo

The neo-Byzantine basilica sits on the hilltop above Viana and is visible from everywhere in the town. Take the funicular railway to the top (or walk if you have the energy). The panoramic views from the terrace behind the church are extraordinary: the Rio Lima, the Atlantic, the town below, and the green mountains of the Minho stretching north towards Spain. On a clear day, this is one of the best viewpoints in Portugal.

The main square is the heart of Viana and one of the most elegant squares in northern Portugal. The old town hall, the 16th-century fountain, and the surrounding buildings create a harmonious ensemble. Sit at one of the cafes on the square, order a coffee, and watch the town go by. The streets radiating from the square are full of shops, bakeries, and small churches.

The Se de Viana do Castelo is a Romanesque-Gothic cathedral with a fortified facade that makes it look more like a castle than a church. Inside, the carved stonework and the azulejo tiles are beautiful. The cathedral has been a stopping point for pilgrims heading to Santiago for centuries, and the tradition continues today.

Viana do Castelo has its own style of preparing bacalhau (salt cod), the national dish of Portugal. Bacalhau a Vianense is cooked with potatoes, onions, and olive oil and is served throughout the town's restaurants. The seafood in general is excellent here, particularly the polvo (octopus) and the arroz de marisco. The restaurants around the main square and the waterfront are consistently good.

The riverfront promenade stretches along the Rio Lima and offers views across the water to the hills on the south bank. In the evening, the promenade fills with locals and the light on the river is soft and golden. The Gil Eannes, a former hospital ship now converted into a museum and hostel, is moored near the waterfront and is worth a visit.

Viana do Castelo is the best town on the Portuguese section of the Coastal Camino for a rest day. The combination of the basilica, the old town, the river, the food, and the general atmosphere make it a place worth lingering. You have walked approximately 80 km from Porto. Your body may be grateful for a day off, and Viana will reward the extra time.