Vilalba

The 15th-century tower is the most impressive building in Vilalba, a fortified medieval tower that has been converted into a Parador hotel. Even if you are not staying there, the tower is worth seeing from the outside. The Andrade family, who built it, were one of the most powerful noble families in medieval Galicia (their name also appears in Pontedeume on the Camino Ingles). The tower dominates the town centre and is visible from the approach on the Camino.

Vilalba is the home of San Simon da Costa, a smoked cow's milk cheese with a distinctive tear-drop shape and a golden-brown rind from the smoking process. The cheese is creamy, slightly smoky, and delicious. Every shop and restaurant in Vilalba serves or sells it. Buy a small piece to carry on the trail. It keeps well and makes an excellent snack at rest stops. San Simon is one of the signature flavours of Galicia and this is the town that produces it.

The Museo de Prehistoria e Arqueoloxia is housed in the former municipal prison (an ironic but practical reuse of the building). The collection covers the rich prehistoric and archaeological heritage of the Terra Cha region, from megalithic sites to Roman remains. The museum is small but interesting, and provides context for the landscape you have been walking through. The Terra Cha has been inhabited for thousands of years.

Vilalba is a working market town with a pleasant main square, traditional shops, and bars. The Praza de Santa Maria has the parish church and several stone buildings. The atmosphere is quiet and local. After days of walking through very small villages with limited services, Vilalba feels substantial and welcoming. Have a long coffee in the square, buy supplies, and enjoy the simple comfort of a town with everything you need.

Vilalba is approximately 130 km from Santiago. The stages ahead pass through some of the quietest and most remote walking on any major Camino route. The trail goes through forests, over the highest point of the Norte in Galicia (710m near Marcela), and through tiny farming villages. At Arzua, you merge with the Camino Frances for the final stages. The contrast between the solitude of the Norte and the bustle of the Frances is dramatic. Enjoy these quiet days. They are among the most contemplativ