Zafra

The two interconnected plazas are the heart of Zafra. The Plaza Grande is expansive and arcaded, surrounded by noble buildings and cafes. The Plaza Chica, just through an archway, is smaller and more intimate, historically the marketplace. On a weekend evening, both squares fill with locals and the atmosphere is lively and welcoming. Sit at a terrace, order a glass of wine, and let the sound of conversation wash over you. This is Extremadura at its most sociable.

The 15th-century castle, now a Parador hotel, dominates the town. The exterior is imposing, with thick walls and a tower. Inside, the marble courtyard is a jewel of Mudejar architecture. You can walk into the courtyard and lobby even if you are not a guest. The castle was built by the Dukes of Feria, who controlled this region for centuries. Staying at the Parador is a luxury, but simply visiting the courtyard is free and worthwhile.

Extremadura is one of Spain's great food regions, and Zafra showcases its best. The jamon iberico (cured ham from acorn-fed pigs) is world-famous and this is the heartland of its production. The Torta del Casar, a creamy sheep's milk cheese, is eaten by cutting off the top and scooping out the interior with bread. The migas (fried breadcrumbs with chorizo and grapes) are a traditional shepherd's dish. Eat well in Zafra. The food here is exceptional and the prices are low.

Zafra is the first town with comprehensive services after several long, hot stages through open countryside. If you started in Sevilla, you have walked roughly 130 km through some of the most challenging terrain on any Camino route: long stages, few shade trees, and limited water sources. Zafra is a chance to rest your body, resupply, and enjoy the comforts of a proper town. The stages ahead continue to be long and exposed. Make the most of Zafra.