Cáceres

The walled old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved medieval city centres in Europe. Enter through the Arco de la Estrella from the Plaza Mayor and walk the narrow streets between golden stone palaces, towers, and churches. Every building is several centuries old. The coats of arms above the doorways tell stories of noble families who competed to build the grandest residence. The old town is compact enough to explore in an hour but rich enough to spend half a day. V

The Almohad tower on the Plaza Mayor offers the best panoramic view of the old town. From the top, the rooftops, towers, and churches of the Ciudad Monumental spread below, and the modern city extends beyond the walls. The tower dates from the 12th century and was built during the Moorish period. The climb is short but the view is excellent. Entry is inexpensive and there is a small exhibition inside.

The Plaza Mayor is one of the great public squares of Spain. Wide, arcaded, and surrounded by golden stone buildings, it is the place where modern Caceres lives. The restaurants and bars under the arcades serve Extremaduran food at fair prices. Try the jamon iberico, the torta del casar, the local pork dishes, and the cherry liqueur from the nearby Jerte valley. On a warm evening, sitting on the terrace with the medieval walls rising above and the square filling with people, Caceres feels extrao

The main church of Caceres sits inside the old town walls. Its exterior is fortress-like, consistent with the military character of the Ciudad Monumental. Inside, the Gothic nave is spacious and the carved wooden retablo (altarpiece) is impressive. The church houses the Cristo Negro (Black Christ), a figure of deep veneration in Caceres. The calm interior is a peaceful contrast to the bright squares outside.

Caceres is a rest day city. The old town alone is worth half a day. Add the Plaza Mayor, the food, the museums (the Museo de Caceres has archaeological and fine art collections), and the general atmosphere, and a full day off is well spent. You have walked through some of the most exposed and demanding terrain on any Camino. Caceres rewards the effort with beauty, food, and the simple pleasure of a magnificent city.