Salamanca

The Plaza Mayor of Salamanca is widely considered the finest public square in Spain. The uniform Baroque arcades in golden sandstone, the medallion portraits in the arches, and the sheer scale and harmony of the space are breathtaking. In the evening, the square is lit with warm light and every cafe is full. Sit at a terrace, order a glass of wine, and watch the city pass by. This is the moment on the Via de la Plata when the cumulative beauty of the route reaches its peak. You are in one of the

The University of Salamanca was founded in 1218 and is one of the oldest and most prestigious in Europe. The Plateresque facade of the main building is one of the most intricate pieces of carved stonework in Spain. The tradition is to find the hidden frog carved among the elaborate decoration (it is said to bring good luck to students). Inside, the lecture halls, the library, and the cloister are all open to visitors. The university is the soul of the city and the reason Salamanca exists in its

As in Plasencia, Salamanca has two cathedrals joined together. The Catedral Vieja (12th century, Romanesque) and the Catedral Nueva (16th century, Gothic-Plateresque) share a wall. Both are magnificent. The Old Cathedral has a remarkable painted altarpiece. The New Cathedral has soaring vaults and a famous carved astronaut and dragon on its facade (added during a 1992 restoration). The Ieronimus exhibition allows access to the towers of the New Cathedral, with views over the city that are among

The Puente Romano across the Rio Tormes is the traditional entry to Salamanca from the south. Half of the bridge's arches are original Roman construction, the other half are medieval replacements. Walking across the bridge towards the city, with the cathedral towers and the golden skyline rising above, is one of the great approaches on any Camino route. The small Romanesque bull sculpture on the bridge features in the picaresque novel Lazarillo de Tormes.

The streets around the university and the Plaza Mayor are full of bars, restaurants, and cafes. The student culture means the prices are lower than you might expect for a city of this beauty. Try the hornazo (a meat-filled pastry that is a Salamanca speciality), the local jamon, the roast suckling pig, and the lentil stew. The nightlife in Salamanca is legendary, but even a quiet dinner on the Rua Mayor with a bottle of local wine is a memorable experience.

Salamanca deserves at least one full rest day, and many pilgrims take two. The Plaza Mayor, the university, the cathedrals, the museums, the food, and the atmosphere all demand time. If you started in Sevilla, you have walked nearly 500 km. Your body needs rest and your spirit needs beauty. Salamanca provides both in abundance. Sleep in. Eat a long lunch. Walk the golden streets at sunset. You have earned this.