Sevilla

The Cathedral of Seville is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The interior is vast, with a main altarpiece of carved and gilded wood that is one of the largest in Christendom. The tomb of Christopher Columbus is here. The Giralda, the bell tower, was originally the minaret of the Great Mosque and you climb it via a series of ramps (not steps) that were designed to allow the muezzin to ride a horse to the top. The views from the top across the city are sp

The Royal Alcazar is a palace complex that has been expanded and modified over a thousand years, from the original Moorish fort through Mudejar, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque additions. The result is one of the most beautiful buildings in Spain. The Patio de las Doncellas, the Hall of Ambassadors, and the gardens are extraordinary. Book tickets in advance, as the Alcazar limits daily visitors. Allow at least two hours, preferably more.

The former Jewish quarter is a labyrinth of narrow whitewashed streets, flower-filled courtyards, small plazas, and orange trees. It sits immediately east of the cathedral and the Alcazar. Getting lost here is half the pleasure. The Calle de las Sierpes, the Calle Mateos Gago (lined with tapas bars), and the tiny Plaza de Santa Cruz are highlights. In the evening, the neighbourhood comes alive with locals and visitors, and the flamenco bars open their doors.

Triana, across the Guadalquivir River, is the neighbourhood the Camino passes through on its way out of Seville. It is also one of the best places to eat in the city. The Mercado de Triana is a covered food market with fresh produce, seafood stalls, and small bars. The streets around the market are full of traditional tapas bars. Try espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas, a Seville classic), pescaito frito (fried fish), and carrillada (slow-braised pork cheeks). Wash it down with a col

Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, the Plaza de Espana is a vast semicircular plaza with a canal, ornate bridges, and 48 tiled alcoves representing each province of Spain. The scale is impressive, the tilework is beautiful, and the architecture blends Renaissance Revival and Moorish elements. It is located in the Parque de Maria Luisa, which is itself a lovely place for a stroll. Visit in the morning or late afternoon for the best light.

The Via de la Plata is not a casual walk. The first week out of Seville crosses the flat, hot plains of Andalucia with long stages and limited shade. The route then climbs through Extremadura, crosses the high plateau of Castilla y Leon, and either continues to Astorga (joining the Frances) or turns northwest on the Camino Sanabres through Galicia. Prepare carefully. Check the weather. Carry at least 2 litres of water at all times in the southern stages. And know that the reward for the difficul