Foncebadón

Just 2 km beyond Foncebadon, the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) stands at the highest point of the Camino Frances, 1,504 metres above sea level. A simple iron cross on a tall wooden pole, surrounded by an enormous mound of stones left by pilgrims over centuries. The tradition is to bring a stone from home and place it on the pile, symbolically leaving behind a burden or sorrow. Many pilgrims describe this as the most emotionally significant moment of their entire Camino. Arrive early in the morning

Foncebadon was almost completely abandoned by the 1990s. The population had left for larger towns, and the old stone houses were falling into ruin. The revival of the Camino brought it back to life. Today there are three albergues, a couple of bars, and a growing community of people who came as pilgrims and stayed. Walk the Calle Real and notice the mix of restored and still-ruined buildings. This village is a story of resurrection.

As you leave Foncebadon and climb towards the Cruz de Ferro, turn around. The view back over the mountains you have climbed since leaving Astorga is spectacular. The green valley of El Bierzo lies ahead. You are standing on the roof of the Camino. Take a moment to appreciate how far you have come.

The albergues in Foncebadon serve simple mountain meals. At this altitude, a bowl of hot soup and a glass of red wine in the evening feels essential rather than indulgent. The communal atmosphere is strong here. Everyone has just climbed the same mountain, and everyone is thinking about the Cruz de Ferro in the morning.