Saint Jean Pied de Port → Roncesvalles

The Route de Napoleon crosses the Pyrenees from France into Spain, following the same pass that Charlemagne's army used in 778 and that Napoleon's troops marched through centuries later. The path leaves Saint Jean through the Porte d'Espagne and climbs through Basque farmland dotted with white-walled farmhouses and free-ranging sheep.

Above Orisson, the last place to buy food or water until Roncesvalles, the landscape opens dramatically. The treeline falls away and the route crosses exposed mountain grassland with views stretching deep into both France and Spain. Herds of pottok ponies (the semi-wild Basque mountain breed) graze the high pastures, and griffon vultures are frequently spotted flying above.

The descent into Spain passes through ancient beech forest before arriving at Roncesvalles, where an Augustinian monastery has welcomed pilgrims since the 12th century. The Gothic collegiate church of Santa Maria houses a beautiful silver-covered statue of the Virgin. A communal pilgrim blessing is offered each evening in the church, setting the tone for the weeks ahead.