Fisterra

The lighthouse sits at the tip of the cape, 3 km beyond the town. This is the true endpoint of the Camino for many pilgrims. The 0.0 km marker stands here, and on clear evenings the sunset over the Atlantic is one of the most spectacular sights in Europe. Walk out in the late afternoon, find a spot on the rocks, and watch the sun drop into the sea. This is what pilgrims have done for a thousand years.

Visit the albergue in the town centre to collect the Fisterrana, the certificate confirming that you have walked from Santiago to Fisterra. It is a separate document from the Compostela and is specific to this route. The credential stamps from the Fisterra route are distinctive and make a nice addition to your pilgrim passport.

Fisterra is a fishing town and the seafood is exceptional. The restaurants along the harbour serve the catch of the day, often grilled simply with olive oil, salt, and lemon. Try the percebes (goose barnacles), one of the most prized and expensive shellfish in Spain, harvested from the dangerous rocks of the Costa da Morte. Also try the navajas (razor clams) and any fresh fish on the menu. Pair with a bottle of Albarino.

A Romanesque church on the edge of town housing the Santo Cristo de Fisterra, a carved wooden crucifix that has been venerated by pilgrims for centuries. The figure is notable for its dark colour and its expression of suffering. In the 16th century, it was described as one of the most visited religious images in Galicia after the remains of Saint James in Santiago.

A long, wide sandy beach stretching between the town and the cape. On a warm day, some pilgrims swim here. On a cool day, the walk along the sand with the Atlantic wind in your face is invigorating. The beach is exposed and wild, a reminder that you are now on the Costa da Morte, one of the most rugged coastlines in Europe.

The old tradition of burning clothes or boots at the cape has been banned for environmental reasons, and rightly so. But the impulse behind it remains: the desire to mark a transformation, to leave something behind. Stand at the 0.0 km marker instead. Look at the ocean. Think about where you started and who you were when you began walking. You do not need a fire to acknowledge that something has changed.