Arthez-de-Béarn

Arthez-de-Bearn sits on a ridge, and the views south towards the Pyrenees are spectacular on a clear day. The mountain chain stretches from east to west, a wall of peaks that you will be crossing in less than a week. Walk to the southern edge of the village in the evening and watch the sunset light the mountains. This is the point on Le Chemin du Puy where the Pyrenees stop being a distant promise and become an approaching reality.

The fortified church of Saint-Etienne dates from the 12th century and reflects Arthez's history as a stop on the medieval pilgrimage route. The defensive bell tower and thick walls were built to protect both the congregation and passing pilgrims. The interior has Romanesque arches and a quiet, contemplative atmosphere. The Commandery of the Hospitallers, which once operated from this village, cared for pilgrims heading to Spain for centuries.

Garbure is the quintessential dish of the Bearn: a thick, slow-cooked soup of cabbage, root vegetables, white beans, and preserved meats (duck confit, pork, sausage). Every family in the Bearn has its own recipe, and every restaurant claims theirs is the best. Order it with a glass of Madiran red wine, the powerful, tannic local red that stands up to the richness of the garbure. The combination of the two is one of the great food pairings of southwest France.

The Jurancon appellation is just south of here, on the hillsides above Pau. The sweet Jurancon (moelleux) is famous for being the wine used to baptise the future Henri IV in 1553. The dry version (Jurancon sec) is crisp, aromatic, and excellent with local cheese. If you see either on a restaurant menu or in a shop, try it. This is a wine you are unlikely to encounter outside this region, and it is one of the hidden treasures of French viticulture.