Aumont-Aubrac

Aligot is the signature dish of the Aubrac region: a rich, stretchy blend of mashed potatoes, tome fraiche cheese, garlic, and cream, beaten vigorously until it forms long elastic ribbons. It is traditionally served with saucisse d'Aubrac (a local pork and herb sausage). The restaurants in Aumont-Aubrac serve excellent versions. This is comfort food at its finest, and after days of walking at altitude, it is exactly what your body needs. Do not skip this.

A 12th-century Romanesque church in the centre of town, built from the dark granite typical of the Lozere. The interior is simple and atmospheric, with thick walls and small windows that create a contemplative space. The church has served the local community and passing pilgrims for nearly 900 years. Get your credential stamped here.

If you have been walking from Saugues through Les Estrets, you have spent two days with almost no services. Aumont-Aubrac has a pharmacy, an ATM, a small supermarket, and a post office. Stock up. The Aubrac stages ahead have gites with demi-pension, but carrying snacks, water, and any medication you need is essential. The next town with comparable services is Nasbinals, about 27 km ahead.

Tomorrow you walk onto the Aubrac plateau, one of the great landscapes of France. The terrain is high (up to 1,370 metres), exposed, and treeless. In good weather, it is magnificent: vast grasslands, wildflowers, granite boulders, and Aubrac cattle as far as the eye can see. In bad weather, it is fog, wind, and disorientation. Check the forecast. Carry waterproofs. And know that the walking ahead is among the most beautiful and most memorable on the entire Chemin du Puy.