Aurizberri

Espinal is a small Basque village of traditional stone houses surrounded by beech forest, sitting at around 870 metres as the route descends gradually south from the Pyrenees. It comes at a pleasant point on the morning walk out of Roncesvalles, when legs are fresh and the forest light is still cool, and the bar here is a dependable stop for coffee and something to eat before the day gets longer.

The village has an albergue and a small shop, which makes it a useful option for pilgrims who prefer a shorter first full day on the Spanish side of the mountains. Most walkers continue to Zubiri, but staying in Espinal puts you in a quieter, more rural setting than the stage-end town, and the morning walk down through the forest the following day is beautiful.

Espinal is also where you begin to feel the Camino Frances settle into its rhythm. The yellow arrows are well marked, the forest path is easy underfoot, and the Pyrenees crossing is now behind you. For many pilgrims, this quiet Basque village is where the journey properly begins.