Belorado

The main square is the heart of this small town. Surrounded by old stone buildings with wooden balconies, it has a few bars with terraces that fill up as pilgrims arrive in the afternoon. The 16th-century Iglesia de Santa Maria sits on one side. A good place to sit with a cold drink and decompress after a long stage.

In the cliff face above the town, you can see the remains of cave dwellings and hermitages carved into the rock. These were used by hermits and possibly early pilgrims centuries ago. The ruins of the old castle sit above them. You cannot enter the caves, but the view from the base of the cliff looking up is evocative.

A modest church with a beautiful Romanesque apse and a peaceful churchyard. Inside, look for the carved capitals and the simple stone work. After the grandeur of Santo Domingo's cathedral, San Pedro's simplicity is a welcome contrast.

In the Middle Ages, Belorado was a thriving cosmopolitan town with separate quarters for French, Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities. Eight churches served the different populations. Today, the town is quiet and modest, but the street layout still reflects its medieval divisions. Walk the streets and imagine the bustling market town that once stood here at the crossroads of cultures.

The river runs along the edge of town. After a day of walking alongside the busy N-120 road, the sound of water and the shade of the riverside trees are a welcome change. Find a spot, take off your boots, and let the afternoon pass.