Caldas de Reis

Caldas de Reis has natural hot springs that emerge at around 35-40 degrees Celsius. There are free public thermal pools near the Rio Umia where you can soak your feet or your whole body after a day of walking. The Hotel Balneario Davila also offers thermal treatments at a reasonable price for a more comfortable experience. After 200 km or more of walking, sitting in naturally heated water while the river flows past is one of the great simple pleasures of the Camino Portugues.

The river runs through the town and there are paths along both banks. The riverside park is green and shaded, with benches and the sound of flowing water. In the evening, a gentle walk along the river with no pack on your back is a pleasant way to end the day. The hot springs emerge along the riverbank, and you can feel the warm water mixing with the cool river water at several points.

The parish church has Romanesque origins and sits in the old centre of town. The stone exterior and the simple interior are typical of the small Galician churches that appear along the Camino with reassuring regularity. The church is not spectacular, but it is authentic and peaceful. Step inside for a moment of quiet before dinner.

Caldas de Reis has several restaurants serving Galician food at pilgrim prices. The menu del dia (daily set menu) typically includes caldo gallego, a main course of fish or meat, bread, dessert, and wine for around 10-12 euros. After walking through forest and farmland all day, a full three-course meal at these prices is one of the best values on the Camino. Enjoy it. You have two more walking days to Santiago.

You are now 40 km from Santiago de Compostela. Two more walking days (or one very long one) and you arrive at the Cathedral. The anticipation builds from here. Tomorrow you walk to Padron, and the day after you walk into Santiago. The final stages pass through increasingly busy trails as more pilgrims join from various starting points. Enjoy the quiet of Caldas de Reis tonight. The trail gets busier from here.