Carrión de los Condes

The western facade of this 12th-century church contains one of the finest pieces of Romanesque sculpture in Spain. A superb carving of Christ Pantocrator sits at the centre, surrounded by the four evangelists. In the archivolt above the entrance, 24 figures depict medieval trades and crafts in extraordinary detail. Inside, the church houses a small museum of sacred art.

This 10th-century monastery, now a hotel, preserves a spectacular Renaissance cloister with intricate vaulting by Juan de Badajoz. You can visit without being a guest. The galleries are decorated with medallions, columns, and sculpted heads of patriarchs, saints, and kings. The monastery also contains a Camino de Santiago study centre and Jacobean library with a facsimile of the Codex Calixtinus.

The Real Monasterio de Santa Clara is one of the oldest Poor Clare foundations in Spain, dating from 1231. The enclosed nuns make and sell traditional pastries including Virutas de San Jose, almond biscuits, and Tortas de Santa Clara. Ring the bell at the convent entrance and buy through the revolving wooden window. A sweet and uniquely Camino experience.

The oldest church in Carrion, built in the 12th century. The Romanesque doorway depicts the legend of the Tribute of the Hundred Maidens, in which Christian kings were forced to deliver 100 young women to the Moorish rulers each year. According to the legend, four of them were from Carrion, and the Virgin intervened to save them. The church is dedicated to the Virgin of Victories in commemoration.

The 16th-century bridge over the Rio Carrion sits at the edge of town, on the route out towards the long, flat stretch of the Meseta. Walk out in the evening and stand on the bridge. The river below, the fields ahead, and the town behind you. Tomorrow begins a 17 km stretch with no services at all. Tonight, rest.

Carrion is Castilian heartland cooking at its best. The restaurants serve cordero asado (roast lamb), sopa de ajo (garlic soup), lentils with chorizo, and excellent local cured meats. The pilgrim menus are generous and cheap. For something special, eat at the Monasterio de San Zoilo restaurant, set inside the old monastery itself.