Castrojeriz

The ruins of the medieval castle sit on a dramatic hilltop above the town. The climb is steep but short and the views from the top are extraordinary. The entire Meseta stretches out below you, and you can trace the Camino path in both directions across the fields. This is one of the most dramatic viewpoints between Burgos and Leon.

Castrojeriz stretches for over a kilometre along a single main street that follows the line of the Camino. In the Middle Ages this was one of the most important pilgrim towns on the route, with seven churches, several hospitals, and a thriving market. Walk the full length and imagine the town when it was bustling with pilgrims, merchants, and monks.

A 13th-century Gothic church at the entrance to town, founded by King Ferdinand III. Inside is a beautiful rose window and several carved tombs. The church is said to have been built on the spot where a statue of the Virgin was found in an apple tree, giving it the name "of the Apple Tree."

At the far end of town, this church has a stunning cloister that is part Gothic, part Renaissance. The carved arches and the peaceful courtyard are among the most beautiful quiet spaces between Burgos and Carrion de los Condes. If the church is locked, ask at the nearby bar for access.

Just outside Castrojeriz, the Camino climbs the steep Alto de Mostelares, a punishing ascent that feels enormous after days of flat Meseta walking. Look at it from the castle ruins the evening before and contemplate what awaits you in the morning. Then go back to the bar, order another glass of wine, and stop worrying about it.