San Sebastián (Donostia)

The old town of San Sebastian has dozens of pintxos bars, each with a counter displaying elaborate bite-sized creations. The tradition is to move from bar to bar, eating one or two pintxos at each, with a glass of txakoli (the local white wine) or a small beer. Each bar has its speciality. The quality is extraordinary. This is not tourist food. It is how locals eat, and they take it very seriously. San Sebastian has more Michelin stars per capita than almost any city in the world, but the pintxo

The Concha beach is a perfect crescent of golden sand in a sheltered bay, often described as one of the most beautiful urban beaches in Europe. The promenade along the beach is elegant, with iron railings and Belle Epoque lampposts. Walk it in the evening when the light softens and the city comes alive. On a warm day, swim. On any day, appreciate the setting. The bay, the hills, the island of Santa Clara in the middle. It is almost absurdly beautiful.

The hill at the eastern end of the bay is topped by the Castillo de la Mota, a 12th-century fortress with a large statue of Christ on the summit. Walking paths wind through the forested hillside and the views from the top over the city, the bay, and the coast are panoramic. The climb takes about 30 minutes from the old town. There is a small museum inside the fortress and several viewpoints along the paths. It is the best free viewpoint in the city.

The Aquarium sits at the foot of Monte Urgull near the harbour and is one of the best in the Basque Country. The highlight is the walk-through tunnel with sharks, rays, and sea turtles swimming overhead. The exhibits cover the marine life of the Bay of Biscay and the deep Atlantic. For a city so connected to the sea, the aquarium is a fitting attraction.

San Sebastian is the best rest day opportunity in the first week of the Camino del Norte. The combination of the beach, the food, the old town, and the general atmosphere make it a city worth an extra day. The stage from Irun was demanding. The stages ahead through the Basque coast are hilly and physical. A day of rest, pintxos, and beach time in San Sebastian is not indulgence. It is strategy.