Frómista

Considered one of the purest examples of Romanesque architecture in all of Spain. Built in 1066, this small church has perfect proportions, a harmonious exterior, and over 300 individually carved capitals and corbels depicting animals, humans, monsters, and biblical scenes. Many are playful and some are wonderfully grotesque. No two are alike. Allow time to walk slowly around the exterior and study the carvings.

The Camino follows the towpath of the Canal de Castilla for several kilometres after Fromista. This 18th-century canal was built to transport grain from the Meseta to the coast. The flat, tree-lined towpath is one of the most peaceful stretches of walking on the entire Camino. Even if you are staying the night, a short evening walk along the canal is lovely.

Just outside town, the Canal de Castilla has a set of four locks (esclusas) that are well preserved and worth visiting. The engineering is impressive for its era and the site has information panels explaining how the locks worked to move grain barges up and down the canal. A surprising piece of industrial heritage in the middle of agricultural Castilla.

The bars and restaurants in Fromista serve classic Castilian fare. Try the sopa castellana (Castilian garlic and bread soup), cordero asado (roast lamb), or lechazo (roast suckling lamb) if you want to splurge. The town is small but the food is honest and filling. Pair it with a local Rueda white wine for a change from the Rioja reds.

The small square in front of the Iglesia de San Martin has a few benches and a fountain. In the late afternoon, the light on the Romanesque stone is golden and warm. It is a simple pleasure to sit here with a coffee and watch the shadows move across those 1,000-year-old carvings.