Golegã

An extraordinary 19th-century photographic studio built by Carlos Relvas, one of Portugal's pioneering photographers. The building itself, with its glass and iron construction, is the star. The interior houses exhibitions of Relvas's work and the history of Portuguese photography. It is one of the most unexpected cultural finds on the entire Camino Portugues.

Golega is the spiritual home of the Lusitano, Portugal's noble horse breed. The surrounding farms breed and train these beautiful animals, and you may see them in the pastures as you walk into town. If you are here in November, the Feira Nacional do Cavalo is a spectacular event with parades, equestrian displays, and the buzz of a town transformed. Outside of festival season, the equestrian heritage is still visible in the town's character and the stud farms nearby.

The route from Santarem to Golega passes through the Porta de Santiago, one of the medieval gates of Santarem. Walking through a gate named after your destination, with hundreds of kilometres still to go, is a small but meaningful Camino moment. The descent from Santarem into the Tagus valley after this gate is gentle and the landscape opens up.

The Ribatejo is famous for sopa da pedra (stone soup), a rich broth of beans, vegetables, and meats that originates from nearby Almeirim. The local restaurants also serve excellent river fish, grilled meats, and simple salads. The portions are generous and the prices are modest. Golega's central square has a couple of good restaurants with outdoor seating.