Lauzerte

The main square of Lauzerte is one of the finest bastide squares on Le Chemin du Puy. Arcaded medieval buildings surround the square on all sides, with stone and timber facades dating from the 13th to 16th centuries. The wrought-iron trade signs on the shops add a distinctive touch. Sit at one of the cafes under the arcades and look up at the buildings. The proportions, the materials, and the accumulated detail of 800 years of continuous use make this a deeply satisfying public space.

Lauzerte is built on a hilltop and the views from the edges of the town are panoramic. The Quercy Blanc landscape of white limestone, sunflower fields, and vineyards stretches away in every direction. The light here is particularly beautiful in the late afternoon, when the limestone glows warm and the shadows lengthen across the fields. Walk the perimeter of the town for the best views. Several benches are placed at viewpoints.

Lauzerte sits approximately halfway between Le Puy-en-Velay and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. If you have been walking from Le Puy, this is a natural moment for reflection. Half the Chemin is behind you. Half lies ahead. The landscape has changed dramatically from the volcanic highlands of the Velay through the wild Aubrac, the Lot valley, and now the rolling farmland of Gascony. The second half of the Chemin takes you through the Armagnac country, across the Landes, and into the Pyrenean foothills.

Lauzerte sits in the heart of the Chasselas grape and Quercy melon region. In summer, the melons are fragrant and sweet. The local cuisine reflects the agricultural richness of the area: duck in all forms, walnut oil, goat cheese, and stone-fruit preserves. The restaurants in the main square serve regional food at fair prices. A glass of local wine, a plate of duck, and a melon for dessert is a meal that captures the essence of this landscape.