Los Arcos

One of the most important churches in Navarra, built and renovated between the 12th and 18th centuries. The mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Plateresque, and Baroque is extraordinary. The late Gothic cloister, the ornate 1760 organ, and the lavish Baroque altarpiece are highlights. Between April and August, the sunset lights up the face of the Virgin through the windows.

A 12th-century octagonal Romanesque church that is one of the architectural jewels of the Camino. Its unusual shape was inspired by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, likely built by Knights Templar or members of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre returning from the Crusades. The star-shaped ribbed vault ceiling inside is mesmerising. Ask at the bar nearby for the key if the church is locked.

The 17th-century gateway that once marked the main entrance to the walled town from the west. It resembles a triumphal arch and bears the arms of Felipe V. Pass through it and you step from the Plaza de Santa Maria into the road towards Viana and the border with La Rioja. This was the last gate of Navarra for medieval pilgrims.

Stand outside this tiny octagonal church in a village of barely 100 people and consider that it was built by men who had walked to Jerusalem and back, nearly a thousand years ago. The Camino has always been part of a wider web of pilgrimage routes across Europe and the Middle East. This church is a physical reminder of that connection.

Los Arcos is known for bacalao al ajoarriero (salt cod in garlic and pepper sauce), roast lamb, and excellent local vegetables like asparagus, peppers, and artichokes. The bars on the main street serve simple but hearty pilgrim menus. Wash it down with a glass of Navarra rosado.

Torres del Rio is tiny and quiet. There is a bar, a small albergue, and very little else. That is the beauty of it. If you are passing through on a long stage, stop for a coffee and sit in the shade. The silence here is restorative.

The main square is surrounded by 17th-century porticoed buildings with bars on the ground floor. Pull up a chair, order a cold drink, and watch the pilgrims arrive through the evening. The church dominates one side of the square. On warm evenings, this is where the town gathers.

A hidden fountain built in 1596, rediscovered after being buried for centuries below ground level. Its masonry structure sits intact in front of the Casa de Cultura. A small but curious piece of history that most pilgrims walk straight past.